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__Ankara__

The city of Ankara lies in the center of Anatolia on the eastern edge of the great, high Anatolian Plateau, at an altitude of 850 meters. It is the center of the province of the same name, which is a predominantly fertile wheat steppe-land with forested areas in its northeast region. It is bordered by the provinces of Cankiri and Bolu to the north, Eskisehir to the west, Konya and Aksaray to the south, and Kirikkale and Kirsehir to the east.

The region's history goes back to the Bronze Age; Hatti Civilization, which was succeeded in the 2nd millennium BC by the Hittites, then the Phrygians (10th century BC); Lydians and Persians followed. After these came the Galatians, a Celtic race who were the first to make Ankara their capital (3rd century BC). It was then known as Ancyra, meaning anchor. The town subsequently fell to the Romans, Byzantines, and Selcuks under ruler Alparslan in 1073, and then to the Ottomans under sultan Yildirim Beyazit in 1402, who remained in control until the First World War.
The town, once an important trading center on the caravan route to the east, had declined in importance by the nineteenth century. It became an important center again when Kemal Ataturk chose it as the base from which to direct the War of Liberation. In consequence of its role in the war and its strategic position, it was declared the capital of the new Turkish Republic on the 13th October,1923. Anitkabir (Ataturk Mausoleum)


Located in an imposing position in the Anittepe quarter of the city stands the Mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk, founder of the Turkish Republic. Completed in 1953, it is an impressive fusion of ancient and modern architectural ideas and remains unsurpassed as an accomplishment of modern Turkish architecture. There is a museum housing writings, letters and items belonging to Ataturk as well as an exhibition of photographs recording important moments in his life and the establishment of the republic. (Anitkabir and the museum is open everyday, except Mondays. During the summer, there is a light and sound show in the evenings). The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations


Close to the citadel gate an old bedesten has been beautifully restored and now houses a marvelous and unique collection including Paleolithic, Neolithic, Hatti, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartian and Roman works. (Open everyday, except Monday. During the summer, the museum opens everyday). The Ethnographical Museum


Opposite the Opera House on Talat Pasa Boulevard is the Ethnographical Museum. There is a fine collection of folkloric artifacts as well as fine items from Seljuk and Ottoman mosques. (Open everyday, except Monday). The Ankara Citadel


The foundations of the citadel were laid by the Galatians on a prominent lava outcrop, and completed by the Romans; the Byzantines and Seljuks made restorations and additions. The area around and inside the citadel is the oldest part of Ankara and many fine examples of traditional architecture can be seen within the citadel walls. There are also lovely green areas in which to relax. The Temple of Augustus


The temple can be found in the Ulus quarter of the city. It was built in the 2nd century BC and only later dedicated to the Emperor Augustus. It is important today for the 'Monument Ancyranum', the testament of Augustus that is inscribed on its walls in Latin and Greek. In the fifth century the temple was converted to a church. The Roman Bath


The bath, situated on Cankiri Avenue in Ulus, has the typical features of Roman baths: a frigidarium (cold section), tepidarium (cool section) and caldarium (hot section). They were built in the time of the Emperor Caracalla (3rd century AD) in honor of the god of medicine, Asclepios. Today only the basement and first floors remain. The Column of Julian


This column, in Ulus, was erected in 362 AD probably to commemorate a visit by the Roman Emperor Julian the Apostate. It stands fifteen meters high and has a typical leaf decoration on the capital. Haci Bayram Mosque

This mosque, in Ulus, next to the Temple of Augustus, was built in the early 15th century and subsequently restored by Sinan in the l6th century with Kutahya tiles being added in the 18th century. The mosque was built in honor of Haci Bayram Veli whose tomb is next to the mosque.

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İZMİR...

Izmir’s history goes back to 3000 B.C. according to the results of historical knowledge and archaeological excavations. Findings and many investigations have been made to enlighten Izmir’s history: The continuous excavations on the Bayrakli ridges by Prof. Dr. Ekrem Akurgal since 1959, the discovery of the Zeus Altar by the German archaeologist Carl Humman in Pergamon (Bergama) between 1866 and 1878, the discovery of the Artemis Temple in 1869 by the British Wood and the continuous excavations by Austrian archaeologists at certain intervals of the city of ancient Ephesus since 1904. Also many researchers in different universities are still investigating on the city’s historical development.


Many legends are known about the derivation of the name of Izmir. According to the knowledge acquired from scientific studies the word "IZMIR" came from Smyrna in the ancient Ionian dialect and it was written as Smyrna in the Attican (around Athens) dialect. The word Smyrna was not Greek, it came from Anatolian root like many other names in the Aegean Region from the texts belonging to 2000 B.C. in the Kültepe settlement in Kayseri, a place called Tismyrna was come across and the (Ti) at the beginning was omitted and the city was pronounced as Smyrna. So the city was called Smyrna the early years of 3000 B.C. or late 1800 B.C. In the Turkish era the city was called Izmir.


In the years of 3000 B.C. Western Anatolia was under a rich Trojan civilization influence. The settlement areas built on the Aegean Coast also developed generally under the Trojan influence. The Hittites which Homer wrote about in the Iliad, were an active force and civilization in the Anatolian mountain pastures because the Trojans were allies of the Hittites and they had a big influence on the Aegean settlements. As a matter of fact Pitane (Çandarli) in the Bakirçay River basin and similar settlements were built by the Hittites. It is believed that the Amazons lived in the area between Caria and the Lydia which today is the sides of the Yamanlar Mountains, and they carried on their existence until the arrival of the Aiolos and the Ions. The Aiolos and the Ions who Fled from the Doric invasion around 1000 B.C., came from Greece and settled in Izmir and its surroundings. The important Aiol and Ionian settlements are as follows: Bergama (Pergamon), Manisa (Magnesia), Izmir (Smyrna), Urla (Klazomenai, near Cesme), Kemalpasa (Nimphaion), Cesme-Ildiri (Erythrai), Sigacik (Teos), Selcuk (Ephesus).


Until the 7th century B.C. Izmir got richer because of its trade with its neighbors especially Lydia. Its good neighbor relationships with Lydia lasted until the Lydians were conquered by the Persians. The Persian sovereignty ended with Alexander the Great's arrival to Anatolia in 334 B.C. In these years, in which the Hellenistic period began, a new settlement was formed around Kadifekale (Mount Pagos) and its city walls belong to the Hellenistic period and have undergone many restorations in the following periods.


The city, which was tied to the Pergamon Empire in 197 B.C., passed into the control of the Roman Empire after a short period between 27 B.C. and 324 A.D. Roman control transformed Izmir into an important trade and harbor city. For the west, Izmir was seen as the center of Asia. In this period the Agora, Acropolis, Theater, Stadium, and constructions that did not remain up to now, like the libraries and the fountains, were built during this period.

The two roads stretching from Kadifekale (Mt. Pagos) to Ephesus and Sardis were built during the Roman period. In 324 A.D. after the Roman Empire was divided into two, Izmir had been taken by the Byzantine Empire and Ephesus especially was an important cultural and religious center in the classic Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods. An important development was not seen during the Byzantine period.

Even though Izmir came into the possession of the Hun Emperor Attila, this authority did not last long and the city re-taken the Byzantines.

Kutalmisoglu Suleyman Sah in 1076 was the first conqueror of Izmir by the Seljuk Turks. In the period that the famous sea admiral Çaka Bey was appointed as the mayor of Izmir; Urla, Foça and the Islands of Sakiz (Chios), Samos and Istanköy (Cos) were conquered. After Çaka Bey’s death the city and its surroundings passed into the possession of the Byzantines in 1098. Then Izmir was taken by the knights at the time that Istanbul was invaded by the Crusaders. In 1320 the Turkish sailor Umur Bey returned Izmir from the Catholic knights and added it to the Turkish land.

In the period of the principalities, Izmir and its nearby surrounding were under the reign of the Saruhanogullari principality. Pergamon (Bergama) and its surroundings were tied to Karesiogullari principality. The reign of Izmir and its surroundings passed into the Ottoman hands completely in 1426.

The following Turkish architectural constructions are distinguished examples of the Turkish culture built during the Ottoman period, they have adorned Izmir for centuries: The Hisar Mosque, The Sadirvan Mosque, the Hatuniye Mosque, the Konak Yali Mosque, the Kemeralti Mosque, the Kestane Bazaar Mosque, the Izmir Clock Tower, the Kizlaragasi Han (Inn - commercial building), the Mirkelamoglu and Cakaloglu Inns and other inns (trade places for spending the night), Bedesten (Ottoman’s special trade constructions).

Beginning with the 16th century Izmir had an important place in the world trade. There was an increase in the consulates of foreign countries especially due to the capitulations that the Ottoman government provided for Europe. It is known that these consulates participated in the trade activities and each anchored their ships in the bay.

A castle was built on the narrowest point of the bay to check the ships entering and leaving the Izmir Gulf. New constructions were built in the second half of the century to help developing of the city’s trade. Among these constructions, the most important examples are the customs building in the 19th century, the sectors of packing, insurance, stock and banking.


In the years of the struggle of liberation, Izmir underwent a great wreckage with huge destructions and fires. With the driving away of the Greek army by the leadership of the great leader Mustafa Kemal Ataturk on September 9th 1922, Izmir started to become a modern city of the young Turkish Republic and developed this character more everyday.

__Canakkale__

The province of Canakkale lies on both sides of the Dardanelles which connects the Sea of Marmara to the Aegean Sea. Its shores touch both Europe (with the Gelibolu Peninsula) and Asia (with the Biga Peninsula) and there are regular ferries between the two sides.


The Canakkale Marina, besides those of Karabiga, Gelibolu, Bozcaada and Kucukkuyu, hosts the colorful yachts which pass through the strait and make a stopover at Canakkale, to see this historical and mythological rich area, homeland of many widely known legends.

The province has witnessed two very important battles in history. One of them is the mythological war of Troy, which Homer immortalized in his Iliad. Archaeological digs in Troy (Truva) have proved that there had been nine separate periods of settlement (3000 BC- 400 AD). Here, one can see the ruins of city walls in addition to the Wooden Horse of Troy. The other one is the Battle of Canakkale which took place during World War I when Turkish troops under the command of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk maintained the defense of the region against enemy forces and Canakkale has taken its place in history as "Canakkale; un-passable". To honor the 500,000 soldiers who gave their lives at Gelibolu (Gallipoli), this peninsula has been made a national park of remembrance. There are memorial monuments here in surroundings of natural beauty.

The small village of Behramkale is a lovely place, facing the Gulf of Edremit. It is founded on the site of Assos where there is the famous Temple of Athena built in the 6th century BC. The panoramic view of the Gulf from the top of the acropolis is breathtaking and the remains of Assos, surrounding the acropolis are worth visiting.
Gökceada, the largest of the Turkish islands, and Bozcaada are also in this region and they have many camping facilities.
Abydos

It lies on the European side of Canakkale which today is called as Eceabat. A titular see of Troas in Asia Minor, suffrage of Cyzicus in the Hellespont province. It was situated at the narrowest point of the Hellespont, and was famous as the legendary spot where Leander swam over to Sestus (today's Canakkale city) to visit his mistress, Hero. Here, too, Xerxes built the famous bridge of boats (480 BC) on which he crossed with his troops to a promontory on the opposite European shore then torched it to make sure that there was no return for his army.

__Antalya__

Antalya, Turkey's principal holiday resort in the Mediterranean region (ancient Pamphylia), is an attractive city with shady palm-lined boulevards, a prize-winning marina. In the picturesque old quarter, Kaleici, narrow winding streets and old wooden houses abut the ancient city walls.

Since its founding in the second century B.C. by Attalus II, a king of Pergamon, who named the city Attaleai after himself, Antalya has been continuously inhabited. The Romans, Byzantines and Seljuks in turn occupied the city before it came under Ottoman rule. The elegant fluted minaret of the Yivli Minareli Mosque in the center of the city built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in the 13th century has become the Antalya's symbol. The Karatay Medrese (theological college) in the Kaleici district, from the same period, exemplifies the best of Seljuk stone carvings. The two most important Ottoman mosques in the city are the 16th century Murat Pasa Mosque, remarkable for its tile decoration, the 18th century Tekeli Mehmet Pasa Mosque. Neighboring the marina, the attractive late 19th century Iskele Mosque is built of cut stone and set on four pillars over a natural spring. The Hidirlik Kulesi (tower) was probably originally constructed as a lighthouse in the second century. Today a church, the Kesik Minaret Mosque attests to the city's long history in its succession of Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman renovations. When Emperor Hadrian visited Antalya in 130 A.D. a beautifully decorated three arched gate was built into the city walls in his honor.

Near the marina the two towers flanking the gate and other sections of the walls still stand. The clock tower in Kalekapisi Square was also part of the old city's fortifications.

On March 29th, 2006, Total Solar Eclipse will be seen in Antalya as well at 13:54pm local time.

Nature

The region around Antalya offers sights of astonishing natural beauty as well as awesome historical remains. You can walk behind the cascade, a thrilling experience, at the Upper Düden Waterfalls, 14 km northeast of Antalya. On the way to Lara Beach, the Lower Düden Waterfalls plunge straight into the sea. The nearby rest area offers an excellent view of the falls; the view is even more spectacular from the sea. Kursunlu Waterfalls and Nilüfer Lake, both 18 km from Antalya are two more places of superb natural beauty.

The sandy Lara Beach lies about 12 km to the east. Closer to Antalya, but to the west, the long, pebbled Konyaalti Beach offers a view of the breathtaking mountain range. A little further the Bey Dagi (Olympos) National Park and Topcam Beach provide more splendid vistas. There are camping grounds at the north end of the park should you decide to linger amid the natural beauty. For a panoramic view of the area, drive to the holiday complex on top of the Tünektepe Hill.
Saklikent, 50 km from Antalya is an ideal winter sports resort on the northern slopes of Bakirli Mountain at an altitude of 1750-1900 meters. In March and April you can ski in the morning, eat a delicious lunch of fresh fish at Antalya's marina and sunbath, swim or wind surf in the afternoon. The wildlife (deer and mountain goat) in Düzlercami Park, north of Antalya are under a conservation program. On the way you can stop at the astonishing 115 meter deep Güver Canyon. In the eastern side of Can Mountain, 30 km from Antalya, the Karain Cave, which dates from the Paleolithic Age (50,000 B.C.) is the site of the oldest settlement in Turkey. Although the little museum at the entrance displays some of the finds, most of the artifacts are housed in various museums throughout Turkey. The ruins of the city of Termessos, set inside Güllük Dagi, a national park northwest of Antalya, is perched on a 1050 meter high plateau on the west face of Güllük Mountain (Solymos). A nature and wildlife museum is found at the park entrance.
The Archaeological Museum, with remains from the Paleolithic Age to Ottoman times, offers a glimpse of the area's rich history.

Other historical sites around Antalya are: Perge, Aspendos, Side, Termessos, Phaselis, Olympos, Chimeira, Kekova, Simena, Patara, Xantos, Letoon, Pinara, Tlos, Kas, Kalkan, Aperlai, Myra and Sillyon.

__USAK__

and the The historical background of Usak goes back to 5000 BC. This province, is situated at the inner side of Western Anatolia. Being closer to the central region, rather than the Aegean, a typical continental climate prevails in the area. The most distinct characteristic of the city is its location, constituting a pathway between four different regions of Turkey, namely the Marmara, Aegean, Central AnatolianMediterranean regions.

As such a binding point, the province witnessed the earliest civilizations which have passed by, and left their signs in every corner of the land. From the Lydians to the Persians, from the Romans to the Ottomans, Usak had been ruled by many invaders, and the remains of those ancient times are found in various districts. There is an archaeological museum in the province, which holds the finds from the area, and is worth a visit for those who are interested. Especially the display of Karun Treasures who were stolen during illegal excavations in the 60's and which were returned back in 1993 by Authorities in collaboration of Metropolitan Museum of Art, are the best examples of the museum.
Usak is an important and lively weaving center. High quality cotton cloth and bed sheets are widely produced in the various towns; and the carpets and kilims traditionally woven here are world famous, with their many colors and beautiful motifs. There are also picnicking areas and thermal centers in the region.
Esme Kilims

Although antique carpets are world famous, today the province�s weavers make kilims instead of carpets. Kilims are associated first and foremost with the district of Esme and the village of Takmak. The women of Takmak do not make kilims commercially, but only for the dowries of their daughters or grandchildren. Esme on the other hand has turned kilim weaving into a commercial asset, and has held a kilim festival every May. The sixty villages of the district are all cashing in on the growing popularity of kilims, and thanks to the efforts of some entrepreneurs traditional colors and designs have been revived. Over recent years kilim weaving has come to rival tobacco cultivation as the main source of income for local families. There are many different local types of kilim design, such as the safe namazlik, selvili namazlik, altinbas, albas, aynali kilim, and Takmak kilimi. The kilims woven in the area are sold first to wholesalers in Istanbul, and from there are exported all over the world.

KONYA


Konya is a city in Central Anatolia in Turkey which has protected its name for centuries. Legend says that Perseus killed a dragon that had been ravaging the town. The people set up a special monument to honor him, a stone obelisk with an icon of Perseus carved in it. This event gave the city it's name, Ikonyon, Ikonyum, Iconium.

However, among Muslims, another legend is told. Two dervishes, friends of Allah, were making an excursion through the skies from the far away countries of Horasan toward the west. When they flew over the lands of central Anatolia, one asked the other, "Shall I land?" ("Konayim mi?"). The other answered, "Sure, land." ("Kon ya!") So, they landed and founded the city of Konya.


Archaeology shows that the Konya region is one of the most ancient settlements of Anatolia. The results of excavations in Catalhöyük, Karahöyük, Cukurkent and Kucukoy show the region was inhabited as far back as the Neolithic Period (Late Stone Age) of BC 7000. Other settlers of the city before Islam were; the Calcolitic Period (Copper Age) civilizations, Bronze Age civilizations, Hittites, Frigians, Lidians, Persians, Romans and finally Byzantines.


Konya is an important place for Christians as well because St. Paul and St. Barnabas came to the city on one of their journeys in Asia Minor around 50 AD. St. Paul preached in Konya but they angered both Jews and Gentiles so they had to leave the city and went to Derbe and Lystra.

The first exposure of the city to Islam happened during the time of the Caliph Muaviya. Later, attacks made by Arabic Muslims, whether Emevi's or Abbasi's, yielded no results. Konya's real meeting with and adopting of Islam began some time after the victory of Seljuks at Malazgirt in 1071, in the time of Kutalmisoglu Suleyman. The attacks of the Crusaders from 1076 to the end of the 12th century could not wrench the city from Islam.


Konya was the capital of Seljuks between 1071 and 1308. In 1220 Alaaddin Keykubad I repaired the city wall and decorated them with towers. But the city has been the site of a power - struggle between the Seljuks, Karamanoglu's, Mongols, and Ilhan's and it changed hands a few times. In the time of Fatih Sultan Mehmet, in 1466, Konya joined the lands of the Ottoman Empire. The first general census was made by the sultan and repeated in the time of Bayazit II, Kanuni Sultan Suleyman, and Murad III.


In the time of Kanuni Suleyman, the city, which had been named as Karaman ili, reached the status of statehood. The borders of the Karaman state, which included the regions of Larende (Karaman), Seydisehri, Beysehri, Nigde, Kayseri (Cesarea), Aksaray, Maras, Elbistan, and Bozok, were reduced when Maras became its own state and Bozok was added to another state.


Konya was affected by the Celali Rebellion. This rebellion was an outcome of the instability in the Ottoman government and land orders in the Ottoman army was defeated by the command of Ibrahim Pasa, Grand Vizir of Sultan Suleyman, in the Battle of Konya.


The borders of the province of Konya, which was set up in 1867, included Nigde, Isparta, Icel and Teke Sanjaks. In the same year, the city was affected by a big fire and in 1873 suffered a serious famine.

In the 19th century the city appeared shabby and neglected and the city walls were in ruins and even the mosques were in terrible conditions. Many of the more recent houses were made of bricks and their lifespan was not more than 100-150 years. Commercial activity was slow. But at the end of the century, in 1896, after the railway to Eskisehir was opened, commercial activity was revived. After 1902, farming with machines developed. The period of sultan Abdul Hamid II was a productive one for Konya. Transport, education and restoration works flourished the city as they did in the whole of the country.

The First World War caused the decrease of manpower in Konya and throughout the country. During the occupation of Anatolia by the Allies, Konya's railway station was run by the British (January 1919). The Italian powers which occupied the city in April 1919, left the city in March 1920 during the Independence War led by Atatürk.

The most important place to visit in Konya is Mevlana's Mausoleum, the mystic poet on the way of sufism and the founder of the Whirling Dervish order. Apart from that there is Karatay Medrese, which was a theological school used as tiles museum today, Alaaddin Keykubat Mosque from 12th century and Ince Minare (Thin Minaret) Mosque.

Afyon

The province, known also as Afyonkarahisar, is located as a gateway between the Aegean sea and inner regions of Anatolia, locating at the crossroads of 3 different regions of Turkey. Afyon is bordered with Konya to the east, Usak to the west, Kutahya to the northwest, Denizli to the southwest, Burdur to the south, Isparta to the southeast, and Eskisehir to the north. Total area of Afyon is 14.570 square km and its elevation is 1.034 meters. The city has a continental climate; hot and dry summers, mild and rainy springs, cold and snowy winters.

The history of Afyon dates back to 3000 BC. It was home to Hittites, Phrygians, Lydians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks and Ottomans. The city is famous for its specific "Turkish Delight" and "Kaymak" (a kind of hard cream put on desserts), its "Sucuk" (special spicy sausages), its Opium fields (under strict supervision by the Government), its marble quarries, and for its various thermal baths.

Afyon is a spa-center with thermal baths in Gazligol Kaplicasi (25 km northwest), Gecek and Omerli Kaplicalari (15 km and 14 km northwest respectively), Hudai Kaplicasi 68 km southwest of the town, and Heybeli Kaplicasi at 30 km from city center. Sandikli is also famous for its mud baths, too. All these resorts have board and lodging facilities.

The Archaeological Museum and the War of Independence Memorial are places to visit in the city and to the north of Afyon there are Phrygian remains in the form of monumental cult rocks. Aslantas and Aslankaya are the largest of these. The lion relieves, which gave the name to these rocks are seen on sides of the rock and cult temples. This area is known as Phrygian Valley. Afyon Citadel which was built during the Byzantine period previously was used as a fortress by the Hittite King Mursil II, is another monument to see in the city. The citadel was called as Karahisar by the Seljuks, meaning Black Castle in Turkish. Ulu (Grand) Mosque and Altigoz bridge are other sites of interest. The town of Dazkiri on the Denizli highway is famous for its carpets and kilims.

Afyon has a small international festival celebrated during the week August 30th every year since 1998. It's an activity of concerts, exhibitions and folk dances, performed for 4 days in different locations.

[Blue Blood]

Edirne

Edirne is a gateway of Turkey opening to western world in Thrace, the first stopover for newcomers from Europe. Situated between the Greek, Bulgarian and Turkish borders, this beautiful city is famed for its many mosques, the elegant domes and minarets which dominate the panoramic appearance of the province. It was the capital of the Ottoman Empire from 1416 until the conquest of Istanbul by Mehmet II in 1453.

One of the most important monuments in this ancient province is the Selimiye Mosque, built in the 16th century by the Turkey's greatest architect, Mimar Sinan. Carrying the name of the sultan reigning in that era, this mosque magnificently represents Turkish marble handicrafts and architecture, and it is covered with valuable tiles and fine paintings. The Yildirim Mosque and the Eski Mosque, dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries respectively, are other spectacular sights while the Muradiye Mosque and the Üç Serefeli Mosque are also among the oldest and most impressive buildings. Last to be mentioned is the Beyazit II Mosque, a great monument with its complex construction comprising many facilities used in those times.

Besides the fascinating mosques, there are different sites to be visited in Edirne, all reflecting its rich past. There are attractive palaces, the most prominent one being the Edirne Palace, which was the "Palace of the Empire" built during the reign of sultan Murat II. There are amazing caravansaries, like the Rüstem Pasha and Ekmekcioglu Ahmet Pasha caravansaries, which were designed to host travelers, in the 16th century.

The lively bazaars of "Bedesten" and "Arasta" make the province colorful and bring back the ancient times. Several bridges exist which have stood for centuries, adorning the land with their old but fine appearances.

Ipsala, is a district of Edirne province and it is Turkey's second most important border gate, on the European frontier, with Greece. It is a wildfowl paradise enjoyed by both Turkish and foreigners.

A specialty of Edirne is to be a center for grease-wrestling (yagli güres), which is the national sport of Turkey. Lively championships are held here every July, for more than 400 years, on Kirkpinar island, a forested area between the Meriç and Tunca rivers. These traditional occasions compromize many entertaining activities, and the province is filled with spectators.

[Blue Blood]

KARABÜK - (( SafranboLu ))

Safranbolu and traditional Turkish houses

Safranbolu

The known history of Safranbolu, located near the north western Black Sea coast of Anatolia, in Karabük nearby Zonguldak, dates back as far as 3000 BC.
Once a city of Roman Province of "Paphlagonia", Safranbolu has hosted many civilizations including the Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman Empires throughout its history. During the Ottoman era the town served as an important junction on the Kastamonu - Gerede (Bolu)- Istanbul route of the famous silk road. Safranbolu was at the same time a popular residence for Ottoman Royalty close to the Sultan and Grand Viziers.

The city received its name from the saffron which is native in Safranbolu. The powder obtained from its flower is a very strong dye. Used in very small quantities, saffron adds a delicate flavor, distinct aroma and a very unique color to deserts and other food in the Turkish Cuisine. It is also used for some Turkish carpets as a unique dye. Also unique in Safranbolu is the famous Çavus grapes with its extremely thin skin and sweet flavor.

Safranbolu displays its extremely rich historical and cultural heritage through 1008 architectural structures displaying a good example of Turkish architecture, all preserved in their original environment. These structures include the public buildings such as Cinci Hodja Kervansaray and Cinci Hodja Hamam, Mosques of Koprulu Mehmet and Izzet Mehmet Pashas, The Tennaries Clock tower, Old hospital premises, The guild of shoe makers, The Incekaya aqueduct, The old city hall and fountains as well as hundreds of private residences. Rock tombs and tumulus just outside the city are also of interest.

Safranbolu was placed in the world Cultural Heritage list by UNESCO in appreciation of the successful efforts in the preservation of its heritage as a whole. Safranbolu has deserved its real name for its houses.

These houses are perfect examples of old civilian architecture, reflecting the Turkish social life of the 18th and 19th centuries. The size and the planning of the houses are deeply affected by the large size of the families, in other words a total members of a big family living together in one house. The impressive architecture of their roofs have led them to be called as "Houses with five façades". The houses are two or three storied consisting of 6 to 9 rooms, each room is entirely detailed and have ample window space allowing plenty of light. The delicate woodwork and carved wall and ceiling decorations, the banisters indoor knobs etc. all come together to form an unmatched harmony of architectural aesthetics and Turkish art.

Traditional Turkish Houses

Being strong and durable, functional, economical and aesthetic are the basic characteristics of the traditional Turkish house. The houses are built along the roads and on the edges of the squares in an order which reflects a strong respect for the neighbors. In most cases, the houses on both sides of the roads, which follow the configurations of the land, are separated with high walls and have overhanging sections on these walls, reaching towards the street.

Entrance to the house is generally through an inner door which opens onto the garden. When household chores permitted, the lady of the house, whose privacy is ensured with the high walls, would go upstairs and look around and chat with neighbors from the overhanging windows of the hall which face either the street or the garden. The large windows of the upper floors protected with bars or grills allowed this outlet.

Inside, the rooms were placed around a common space called sofa (hall), either on one or two sides or all around it. Sofas were in a sense interior court yards. It is an area which provides work space during the daily life as well as facilitating circulation among the rooms. They are opened to the outside sometimes completely on one side and sometimes on both sides.

The rooms were arranged to meet all the needs of their occupants. There, one could sit and rest, sleep, eat, worship, work and even take a bath. The recessed cupboards, open shelves, storage cupboards and places for washing lining the walls functioned as built in furniture. The divans placed in front of the windows were both seats and beds and left centers of the rooms free. The main living area of the house was the upper floor while the ground floor was allocated to service spaces.

The materials used in the houses varied according to the regions and climatic conditions. Wood and stone were used in the Black Sea Region, while it was stone and wood according to the locale in the West and the South and combinations of mud brick and wood in the Center and the Eastern parts of the country.

[Blue Blood]

Trabzon

When the Roman Empire was divided into two at the end of the 4th century, Trabzon remained under the sovereignty of the Eastern Roman Empire which later on was called as Byzantine Empire. When relations and wars between the Byzantines and the Arabs started, the Arabs called the people under the Roman Sovereignty as Rum, and the areas under the Roman sovereignty as Diyar-i Rum or Memleket-ul Rum (land of Rums).
Anatolia, as it was under the Roman sovereignty at that time, was mentioned as Diyar-i Rum. Later, since the Turks also accepted to use the word Rum, the Province of Anatolia was called Eyalet-i Rum, the Anatolia Sultan, Sultan-i Rum, and Mevlana of Anatolia as Mevlana Celaleddin-i Rumi.
The Byzantines gave special importance to Trabzon from the military point of view. During the reign of Emperor Justinian in the 6th century the city walls were thoroughly repaired and enlarged. A road from Trabzon to Persia was opened. Huts for defense were built at bends and effort was given to establish Christianity so that the tribe Can, the dwellers along the road would be obedient. Aqueducts of Saint Eugenius were built.
In the 8th century the Moslem Arab armies entered Anatolia and came down to Trabzon, invading the area around the citadel. They saw hazel nuts for the first time.
In the 9th century the Moslem Turkish armies started coming to the Trabzon area and outer part of the citadel went under the sovereignty of the Moslem Turks. Inside the citadel there were still the Greek colonists. It is in this period that construction of the Saint Ann Church in the Ayvasil district completed.
In the 10th century Islamism outside the citadel speeded up and the Turks around became Moslems. Two of the four routes of the Seljuk raids which began in the 11th century passed through the Eastern Black Sea region and Trabzon was then the native country Moslem Turks. Canik was one of the eight provinces of the country conquered by the Moslem Turks in Anatolia and the name Turkey was given for the first time in 1081. Its principal city was Trabzon (the name Canik derived from the word Canika, the place where the Can Tribe lived near Macka area in the south of Trabzon) and moved to the west, and the name Samsun as time passed by derived from it. In the second half of the 11th century there were two Trabzon's: The outer part of the citadel was under the sovereignty of the Danismeds; The inner part of the citadel was under the sovereignty of the Byzantines.
After the fights over the throne started in Byzantium (Istanbul) in the 12th century, the Commenos family was dethroned, young Alexis Commenos escaped to Georgia. He declared his Kingdom in Georgia in 1204 and came to Trabzon by the help of the Christian Georgians. He took the citadel from the Byzantian governor who was at his side and made Trabzon the capital of his Kingdom; the state of Trabzon emerged. As the King was a Christian Anatolian, the state was also called as the Trabzon Rum State. But the people with the intention to capture Anatolia and the ignorant who were deceived by them used the name, Rum Pontus state.
In the 13th century when the Trabzon state was founded, the Seljuk Turks besieged Trabzon twice and bound them to tax. The King of Trabzon, Alexis Commenos, fortified the citadel and ditches were dug around it. The outer part of the citadel became a large commercial city and was mentioned as "The pupil of whole Asia". The palace of the King and official buildings were placed on the high plains of the inner fortress. The commercial life of the country that extended from Batum to Kerempe including Crimea which was in the hands of the Genoese and the Venetians. On the coast of the city there were castles and warehouses.
In the mid-13th century the Trabzon state, being rather small, began to be surrounded by the Cepnis. The Cepnis under the sovereignty of the Sungurlu tribe, from the Ucok subdivision of the Oguz division, who was the son of Kara Han and the grandchild of Turk Han, settled down on the borders of the Trabzon state. While there were Christian Kings in the inner citadel Islam was spreading quickly in the outer citadel. Ahi Evren Dede, an Islamic missionary, was buried in Boztepe after his death in the 14th century.
Meanwhile Trabzon became the center of Europe-Asia trade. But Moslem pirates, coming particularly from Sinop, were raiding the coasts and plundering the city. The King of Trabzon, Alexis Commenos II (1297-1333) who had the Giresun castle built, had constructed walls against the sea which is supposed to be the Moloz District now.
In the beginning of the 15th century Tamerlane invaded Anatolia and captured Trabzon too. But he did not add it to his Empire, he taxed it under the administration of his son Halil Mirza.
In 1411 the Saint Savas Church built in the Boztepe slope was decorated; according to the people the construction of the bell tower and belfry of the Saint Sophia Church was completed in 1427 and the drawing of the pictures on the arches of the entrance door of the Church was terminated in 1444.
A very bad struggle for the throne had started in Trabzon, it was evident that the last years of the Trabzon State had come. As a matter of fact the ruler of the Ottoman Empire Sultan Murat II had attacked Trabzon in 1442 from the sea and returned home taking slaves and taxes. The ambassador of Trabzon was also among those who congratulated Sultan Mehmet (The Conqueror) when he was enthroned in Edirne in 1451. During the preparation of the conquest of Istanbul in 1452, first the Bogazkesen Castle (Rumeli Hisari) was built in order to put an end to bonds between Trabzon and Istanbul; And after he conquered Istanbul in 1453, he also bound Trabzon to tax for 2000 duke golden coins. When it was not paid he sent Hizir Bey, the tutor of his son Sehzade Beyazid who was the governor in Amasya, over Trabzon in 1456.
Hizir Bey surrendered Trabzon and established his headquarters in the eastern section (now the Municipal building). But since the King of Trabzon declared that he would pay the tax required, he returned. The tax was sent to Istanbul in 1457 and was accepted only if the amount was increased to 3000 duke golden coins.
The King of Trabzon Commenos IV began to search remedies to be saved from this pressure of the Ottomans and tried to bring together all the governments and nations from Caucasia and the coasts of Euphrates River (Firat) to France and Vatican in opposition to the Ottoman State. At the end, by applying the old tradition, he engaged his beautiful girl to Uzun Hasan Bey, the ruler of Akkoyunlu, provided that he should defend Trabzon against the Ottomans. The last King David Commenos who took his place in 1458, first sent his niece to Uzun Hasan Bey so that she could be his wife and requested not to be taxed. Uzun Hasan Bey in return to Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror, asked him not to tax Trabzon, and also that he wanted back the debt that remained from his ancestors. The Conqueror by sending back the envoys told that he would personally come and pay his debt. In 1461, he set off to Trabzon.
Uzun Hasan Bey was afraid and begged pardon by sending his mother Sara Hatun to Ercincan, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror said that he would forgive in case no help was rendered to Trabzon, but continued his voyage to Trabzon taking Sara Hatun with him. The army was divided into two in Bayburt. One part went on taking a separate route under the command of the Grand Vizier Mahmut Pasha. The route which the Conqueror followed was very difficult, particularly while crossing the Bulgar mountain. Sara Hatun wanted to take an advantage of this and tried to persuade the Conqueror to give up the voyage. But he did not take her words into consideration and Trabzon was surrounded from land and sea. The King of Trabzon David Commenos who learned that the Sultan and the Grand Vizier were coming at the head of the army, forgot about Trabzon which in fact was not of his own. He notified that he would give back the citadel if another suitable piece equal to the income of Trabzon was given. He assigned Amirutzes, his chief private secretary, as a representative and the Conqueror made the Grand Vizier Mahmut Pasha his representative. Amirutzes and Mahmut Pasha were cousins. Therefore discussions of surrender concluded immediately and Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror entered the citadel of Trabzon on Monday, the 26th of October 1461, he closed the phase of the Trabzon State that lasted 250 years in history. The Commander of the Fleet and the Governor of Gelibolu Kazim Bey took over the administration of the city.
Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror first of all changed the Panaghia Krys Krysokephalos church into a mosque and prayed in it. It was called the Ortahisar Mosque; now it is called Fatih Mosque. Later he turned Saint Eugenes church into a mosque and the first Friday Prayer was performed; it was called the Yenicuma Mosque. Since the community of a church in front of Mumhane became Moslems, this church was also turned into a mosque and was called Karabas Mosque. But it was destroyed in 1788.
Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror gave the jewels left over from the Trabzon State to Uzun Hasan Bey's mother Sara Hatun and sent her to her son. The son of Commenos, the ex-king of Trabzon, settled in the region named Pera in Istanbul and accepted Islam. The people of Istanbul called that place Beyoglu meaning the place where the son of the Trabzon Bey stayed.
The Christian families were taken out of the castle of Trabzon. The riches were sent to Istanbul. Others were settled in the neighboring called Meydani Sarki (Dogu meydani - Belediye meydani), Arafilboyu and Yenicuma. Suleyman the Magnificent came back to Istanbul, and Trabzon became a "Sancak" (outpost) which was later bounded to the Anatolian state.
In 1489 the son of Sultan Beyazid, Sultan Selim Yavuz, became the governor of Trabzon and came to Trabzon with his mother Gulbahar Hatun (Ayse). He himself gathered the intellectuals in Trabzon for his first born child Suleyman the Magnificent in 1494. Then due to the threat of the Shiis developing in Persia, he had city-walls constructed around Trabzon. But he could not convince the political danger of the Persian ruler who was pretending to be a religious ruler to his father and elder brother, the governor of Amasya. In the end he pressed of Shah Ismail's forces with his troops formed by the citizens of Trabzon. In 1508 he overcame Shah's big army corps and drove them out of his borders. He was going to go further but returned on demand of the Sultan.
Yavuz Sultan Selim was acting as a monarch and using the emperors rights. He himself attacked Georgia and owing to his heroic acts and successes he was named "Yavuz" (brave). Meanwhile his son Suleyman (Kanuni) was at the age of 15 and took over the governance of Kefe. Yavuz Sultan Selim went to Kefe by the sea with his army formed by the citizens of Trabzon and attacked Caucasia without permission; and not obeying the orders, he wanted to have a governor's post in Rumeli in order to be near Istanbul. As he couldn't get what he wanted, he attacked Edirne via Rumeli and was defeated by his father's (Sultan Beyazid) army and escaped to Crimea. In 1512 Sehzade Ahmet, during his father's lifetime, was called to Istanbul to become the ruler. But this time janissaries rebelled and he went back. Upon this, Yavuz Sultan Selim was called and became the ruler. Yavuz was interested in sports and science. During his governance he used the area called "Atapark" as a play ground; he shot arrows and organized competitions of bowshots for young Trabzon citizens.
A beautiful mausoleum was built over his mother Ayse (Gulbahar), the daughter of Dulkavidli ruler Aleaddevler, who died in 1505. Haci Kasim Fountain dating 1409 and Seydi Haci Mehmet fountain dating 1500 on Kavak Meydan street survived from the time of Yavuz Sultan Selim's governance. Hatuniye Mosque which was built for his mother, was completed in 1514. It is one of the greatest master pieces of the Ottomans in Trabzon.
After Yavuz Sultan Selim left in 1522, Iskender Pasha became the governor of Trabzon. In 1514 Erzincan became a state and Trabzon was bounded to it. Iskender pasha became the governor of Trabzon for four times. During his governance he built Iskender Pasha fountain at Belediye Square in 1519, another fountain at Hoca Halil Mahalle, Asagi Hisar in 1523 and a mosque at Belediye Square and a medrese (which isn't there anymore) in his name in 1529. Iskender Pasha, died in 1533, was buried within the mosque built by him. His tomb can be seen there.
During Kanuni Sultan Suleyman's reign (1520-1566) the Anatolian state was divided into two; Rumeli (Thrace) and Anatolia. The capital of the new Anatolian state was Trabzon and the subdivisions called Kemah, Bayburt, Malatya, Kahta, Divrigi and Darende were joined to Trabzon. But in 1534 the administrative system changed again; Erzurum became the capital and Trabzon was joined to Erzurum. In 1514 the city-walls of Trabzon were restored by Sirvanzade Mirza Mehmet Bey.
In the middle of the 16th century it is known that the Islamic religion hasn't penetrated into some regions of Trabzon. A man named Sheik Osman Efendi from Maras, who came by way of Bayburt, reinforced the Islamic religion. His tomb is in Caykara now.
In 1563 Governor of Trabzon Kasim bey (Kasim Celebi) built Pazarkapi Mosque. In 1564 Batum was captured. In 1566 Suleyman the Magnificent died. It was seen that the suit array which was taken off his back was even from a material woven in Trabzon. Suleyman the Magnificent used to wear clothes from Trabzon linen and also made the royals and janissaries wear it.
In 1578 Erdogdu Bey, governor of Trabzon, changed the small mosque by adding a minaret to it at Tekfur Cayi region. Therefore the mosque and the neighboring were named Erdogdu. In 1582 the Trabzon - Batum state, whose capital was Trabzon, was established; and St. Sophia church was changed into a mosque without laying a hand on any of its frescoes.
In the 17th century the Russian Don Cossacks began to plunder the coasts of Black sea. Omer Pasha, the governor of Trabzon then, organized a fleet of boats named 'menkisle' with 5 crew each and stopped these attacks.
Meanwhile riots in Anatolia had begun. One of the notables of Celali and Akkoyunlu Turkmenians, Ali Pasha from Murathan, became the governor of Trabzon. In 1608 while Celalis were being despoiled, Murat Pasha was called to Bayburt and killed there.
In 1732, a famous traveler and writer Katip Celebi (Haci Halife)'s book titled "Cihannuma" was published. There is some information about Trabzon in this book. In 1640 Evliya Celebi came to Trabzon and gave a great deal of information about the city in his book titled "Seyahatname". He describes the citizens of Trabzon as cleanly dressed, educated people fond of good talkers, fond of reading and writing poems. He divides the people into seven classes as: Notables and Nobles with Sableskin coats, scholars in special array, Merchants wearing Ferace made of broadcloth, Kontos and Dolman, Craftsmen who can mint and can masterly make all kinds of gold and silverware and weapons, Sea conveyors and Merchants with Shalwvar and Dolman made of broadcloth, i.e. the sailors, gardeners and fishermen.
Vizier Arnavut Mehmet Pasha who came to Trabzon as a governor in 1644 was dismissed from his position after a short time and went to Kopru district, the home-town of his wife, and settled there. Therefore he was called Koprulu Mehmet Pasha. He became the first member of Koprulu Family, and the name of Kopru was changed to Vezir Kopru.
In the middle of the 17th century the raids of Kazak pirates to Trabzon shore turned into Russian attacks. That's why the Trabzon governors were generally in charge of guarding the castles on the border as an additional duty. Trabzon was often left without a governor and was governed by Aghas instead of governors. Public order began to deteriorate and governors became unable to render good service in the city.
During the period of Biyikli Mustafa Pasha, governor of Trabzon in 1727, the conditions improved a little and Zeytinlik medrese which was the third great foundation of education of Trabzon was built. But public order in the city deteriorated again because in 1828 war with Iran broke out and this time the governors, in order to participate in the Iranian war, were handing Trabzon over to their assistants called Mutessellim. By then public order had deteriorated entirely, Laz and Cepni Aghas were attacking each other. In 1741 Omer Pasha established peace again and had the Trabzon and Gorele castles repaired, opened the Harsit road and built a nice palace in Guzelhisar for himself. He was confronted with the wrath of the Sultan and his palace was burned and he was executed.
Hekimoglu Ali Pasha, one of the famous grand Viziers and the governor of Trabzon in 1749, improved the public order by his skillful administration. He repaired the Karabas Mosque. In 1754 he was appointed as the Grand Vizier for the second time and was taken from Trabzon. In 1762 Mustafa Efendi, from Saraczade Family, founded the Saraczade Library. During that time Trabzon was progressing in commerce and hazel-nut was being exported from Trabzon to Russia. But public order was deteriorating terribly. Canikli Haci Ali Pasha who was sent to Trabzon as a governor in 1772 improved the public order, but this time governorship inherited by this family from then on. The candidate governors began struggling for seat. Then Sari Abdullah Pasha, who was brought up as the slave of Canikli Family, was sent to Trabzon as a governor. In 1788 the misleading trends in the administration of Trabzon had become worse. The task of killing Sari Abdullah Pasha was given to Kuguzade Suleyman Pasha, the new governor of Trabzon in 1791. He immediately carried out his duty, trapped and killed him and buried him in the cemetery near the Tavanli Mosque.
At the beginning of the 19th century the Russian attacks to Trabzon shores strengthened. The Russians captured the Azak, Anapa and Fas Castles on the border and in 1810 they landed on the Sargana shores of Akcaabat. Sakaoglu Mahmut Agha, the chief of Akçaabat, taking men along with him, and his wife Uluvve Hatun taking women as followers, opposed the enemy. By the participation of the people who came from the surroundings and the Trabzon governor Carhaci Ali Pasha himself, fierce battles started. They drove the enemy to the sea.
Meanwhile public order was in a disorderly state in Trabzon Region. The Aghas and the notables didn't take the government into consideration. As Haznedarzade Suleyman Pasha who was appointed to Trabzon as a governor, with a rank of Vizier, to improve the public order, was in a disagreement with Hopali Tuzcuoglu Memis Agha, the chief of Rize. Tuzcuoglu Memis Agha attacked Trabzon with all the notables and Aghas of the region and drove his head officer Cecenzade Hasan Agha out of the city. He dominated the Trabzon Castle and he acted as the head of the state for exactly four months. When the State forces came, he escaped and went to Of. He was captured and decapitated in 1817. But the social tension caused by the Aghas went on.
While Hazinedarzade Osman Pasha, who was sent to Trabzon as a governor in 1827, was taking protective precautions in his region against the Russian attacks, he was also trying to prevent the frequent revolts of the Aghas. In 1834 he completely stopped the revolts and improved the public order. He made the notables of Tuzcuoglu Family migrate to Ruscuk and Varna regions.
As a result of the improving public order, the commercial life and public works became active. Charles Texier who came to Trabzon in 1832, gave many information about Trabzon in his famous book named Asia Minor and mentioned Trabzon as the transit center of the East. As steam ships began their tours on the Black Sea in 1836, the commercial transportation in the Mediterranean directed to the Black Sea. In 1837 the Fatih mosque in Ortahisar was repaired and one of its rooms was constructed as a Sadirvan (fountain for the ablutions before prayers). The Çarsi Mosque was built in 1841. In 1842 the Fetvahane Library was constructed. Abdullah Pasha became the governor in place of his brother Hazinedarzade Osman Pasha who died in 1842, and contributed a lot to the public works of Trabzon.
The Hatuniye and Fatih Libraries were constructed in 1844, Kalcioglu Memis Agha Fountain was built in 1845. In 1848 Ismail Pasha, the Minister of public works, came to Trabzon with a group of specialists to examine the project about Trabzon - Baghdad Road in 1849. The Abdullah Pasha Fountain was put into service. In 1850 the Saraczade, in 1851 the Pazarkapi Medreses were founded, the Imaret Library was widened. Trabzon became the center of an intensive transit transportation in the middle of the 19th century; The trade in Trabzon Harbor started to expand continuously. Trabzon was the center of one of the 39 provinces of the Ottoman Empire. Sebinkarahisar, Samsun, Batum and Maradit were counties under the rule of Trabzon.
There was a regular sea transportation between Trabzon and Istanbul every fifteen days and it was necessary to have a well constructed highway to go to the East. For this reason, Ismail Pasa, Minister of Public works, came to Trabzon in 1850 and the construction of Erzurum - Trabzon highway began.
Primary and secondary Schools teaching with new methods were put into service in 1852. The marsh of Batum was dried, clean water was brought, and the Aziziye Mosque was built in 1862. Trabzon became a civilized and well-constructed city. In 1863 the St. Sophia (Ayasofya) Mosque was restored, the pictures in the mosque were covered with plaster; stairs were built for the bell-tower which was used as a minaret.
The provinces were abolished and the big cities were organized in the second half of the 19th century. Trabzon became a big city too, and also three provinces were added to Trabzon: 1) Central province of Trabzon (Giresun, Bulancak, Tirebolu, Of, Rize). 2) Province of Canik (Samsun, Unye, Bafra). 3) Province of Lazistan (Batum, Arhavi). 4) Province of Gumushane (Torul, Kelkit).
Trabzon was a lively and prosperous city. An American school was put into service in 1865 and an official printing office was established in 1866. Samsun, which was a subdivision of Trabzon, was completely burnt down and rebuilt on a modern new plan designed by the local government in Trabzon. In 1870 a formal newspaper named Trabzon and the first year book of Trabzon were printed.
The sea transportation in Trabzon increased considerably in those days and four ship companies arranged tours to Istanbul once a week. Two foreigners ran a beautiful hotel in the city. The shopping district was very rich and lively, goods from all over the world were sold there. The square called "Gavur Meydani" (The Municipal square) used to be a place where people took walks. This centre reminded people of Champs Elysses in Paris. The Kavak Square was the centre of sports and people on horses used to play jereed (Javelin) there. The population of the city was about forty thousand. There were some beautiful houses in the city and there was a road to the west across the city. While some changes in the administrative body were taking place in 1870, the Sebin Karahisar subdivision was separated from Trabzon and became a separate province, and Giresun became a county of this province. On the other hand in 1872, the towns of Surmene, Vakfikebir, Gorele and Aybasti were joined together as county of Trabzon.
Trabzon was developing day after day. In 1875 a French school was put into service in the city. There appeared a great progress in the commercial life and hazelnuts were exported to Belgium as well. When the Russian - Turkish war started in 1876, Trabzon was used as a supply centre of the army.
In 1883 a Persian school was put into service. Akcaabat which was known for its tobacco, Yomra famous for its fruit and therapeutically waters, Macka as the centre of making quilts, covering copper goods with tin and carving stones, were towns under the rule of central Trabzon. From the big harbor called Vakfikebir, butter, corn and beans were exported. Surmene was a natural harbor and the people living there were mostly fishermen. There lived a lot of scientists and artists in Of. In those days there was a constitutional government ruling the Ottoman Empire. When the first elections took place, Trabzon sent three deputies to the legislature. In accordance with the Ayastefanos agreement, Batum remained under the Russian rule and Rize became the capital of Lazistan in 1877. Mehmet Ziver Efendi, who wrote many poems about the fish (hamsi, like sardines) died in 1880. Leyla Hanim, whose poems were widespread among women, was the wife of Sirri Pasha, the governor of Trabzon then. Hamamizade Ihsan, an inhabitant of Trabzon, who has acquired a very distinctive place in the Turkish literature, was born in 1884.
Meanwhile Trabzon's nearest county Akcaabat has become a sub-district in 1887. Of, Surmene, Akcaabat, Vakfikebir, Gorele, Tirebolu, Giresun, Ordu, Yomra, Macka, Sarli and Tonya were sub-districts of Trabzon by the end of the 19th century. Trabzon continued to be the starting point of international road to Iran and an important seaport town of Eastern Anatolia. There were eight ship agencies, one of which was local. There were nine consulates in Trabzon. In brief, it was a big and rich city. The Armenians in Trabzon started a riot but it was soon overcome in 1895.
When the Second Constitutional Regime was declared in 1908, seven deputies were elected from Trabzon for the parliament. In the 1912 elections seven parliamenters were elected again. During that period the administration of the Ottoman State had become weaker because of the struggle of rivalry of political parties. Italians took advantage of this instability and occupied the twelve islands in the Aegean and also landed at Tripoli (Trablusgarb) which was under the sovereignty of the Ottoman Empire. The Balkan war broke out; the government declared a state of emergency and wanted the aid of all provinces. People of Trabzon and its districts tried very hard to procure money for the government.
The Ottoman Government frequently changed hands and the power of the state weakened because of the struggle and rivalry of political parties. Bekir Sami Bey, who was a governor in Trabzon twice in 1911 and 1912, was also the foreign Minister of the Ankara Government during the years of the Turkish National War of Liberation. The governorship of Suleyman Nazif Bey, who was a famous Turkish poet, didn't even last a year. The governorship of Professor Mehmet Ali Avni, who was famous with his scientific and artistic works, lasted shorter than Suleyman Nazif's. Samih Rifats's governance lasted only a month. In 1913, as the activities of Armenian Committees and the Second Balkan War started, Cemal Azmi Bey became the governor of Trabzon.
When World War I broke out in 1914, the IstanbulGovernment couldn't keep its impartiality and was obliged to enter the war on the side of Germany. Disastrous days for Trabzon began. The city was bombed by 23 Russian warship on 1st November 1914. Bomb-shells followed one another, and a large group of young people from Trabzon died in the battle of Sarikamis in the east of Turkey. As the bombardments were continuing, Russian land troops passed the shore border on 24th February 1916 and occupied Rize and came to the border of Of. The people of Of and its sub-districts joined the 2500 soldiers under the command of Gurcu Avni Pasa, the commander of that region. They stopped the Russian Army on the border of Trabzon, in spite of the good state of the Russian army. But the Russians occupied Of on 5th March 1916 and Trabzon on 18th April 1916 anyway. Trabzon was saved from the enemy invasion on 24th February 1918 and was joined to the Motherland.
Some people say that the name of the city comes from the Greek "Trapezous"; "trapezion" is the table, and the ending "-ous" means the place which possesses/has something (eg. Kerasous; the place that has cherries, todays Giresun). Trapezous indicates the flat hilltop in the old city, which is surrounded by the medieval wall.
Sumela Monastery (Macka)

Situated in a very beautiful and natural setting, Sumela Monastery built in the 14th century is nestled into the side of rocks in a famous valley in Maçka, only 50 kilometers away from Trabzon. The setting is 1200 meters above the sea level.
Two Greek monks, Barnaby and Sophronios started the original building. The 7th century Icon apparently painted by an anonymous Trabizond (Trabzon) artist became the symbol of the monastery.
Some say that the name "Sumela" comes from the Greek word "melas" which means "black" and it refers to the characteristic dark color of this icon. But others say that "Melas is the name of the mountain above the monastery, "sou" in the Pontian Greek dialect means "at the", so Sumela (Sou + Mela) means "at the Melas (mountain).
The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin and the large monastery complex had 5 floors and a total of 72 rooms. The upper floor was used as a gallery and a lookout post. The whole building was full of frescoes and the wall paintings. The large part of the building was hewn out of the rock. It stands in front of a beautiful valley scenery and sharp rocky mountains behind.
St. Sophia Museum

It was built in covered Greek cross architecture during the reign of King Manuel I Kommenos in 13th century. Muslim Seljuk stone workers also worked for the construction of St. Sophia Church and church continued its service until 1670 after Ottomans invaded the region. It was converted into a mosque in 1670 and served as a storage and hospital during World War I. Later it served as a mosque again. The chapel in the north of the church is older and the bell tower and was built in 1427. St. Sophia Church was converted into a museum in 1964 and is located in 3 kilometers west of the city. It is not to be confused with St. Sophia Museum in Istanbul.
It's name comes from Greek: Hagia Sophia means Divine Wisdom.
Atatürk Mansion

The mansion, which was built by a rich Greek banker named Konstantinos Kappagianidis, is an example of 19th century European architecture. Atatürk stayed in this house when he visited Trabzon in 1930 and in 1937, was bought by Trabzon municipality in 1964 after he died in 1938 in Dolmabahce Palace, Istanbul. The mansion has been exhibited as a museum since 1964. It is 7 kilometers from downtown and is located in Soguksu.

[Blue Blood]

Sinop

Sinop is one of the most beautiful natural harbors on the Black Sea coast. There are many legends about the foundation of the city but the most dependable is that the Miletion colonists founded it in the 7th century BC and the city is the birthplace of the cynic philosopher Diogenes. According to another legend the province is said to have received its name from the Amazon Queen "Sinova". The town's citadel dates from that early age and the foundations of the Temple of Serapis is to be found on the grounds of the Archaeological Museum where some beautiful golden icons are displayed. The 13th century Alaeddin Mosque, the Alaiye Medresse, and the Balatlar Church are of interest in the city.

Traditional nautical wood carvings, good crystal and the original cotton clothes of the city are praiseworthy and unique, so you will want to have examples of these artifacts. The seaside hotels and small holiday villages will make you stay longer and you will have the opportunity to sit in a fish restaurant by the harbor and watch the perfect combination of green and light blue while sipping your wine and tasting some traditional Turkish food. Hamsilos Fjord, 11 kilometers from the city center is the only fjord in the country.

Gerze, situated on a peninsula, 40 kilometers southeast of Sinop, will provide you with fine beaches, meadows, restaurants and parks, while Camgölü provides camping facilities in a large forest sloping to the sea. At Boyabat, the largest town of the province, there are many rock tombs and a citadel.

[Blue Blood]

Amasya

Amasya is one of the provinces in Central Anatolia of Turkey which is distinct both with its natural setup and historical values it holds. It was the homeland of the famous geographer Strabo. Located in a narrow cleft of the Yesilirmak (Iris) river, it has a past of 3000 years during which many civilizations left priceless remains of their times.

The ruins of the citadel on the rock face of the cleft shelters 2000 year old water-channels, 1000 year old bridges, a mental hospital, an Ottoman Palace and a secret underground passageway. On the rock faces there are impressive rock tombs of the Pontus kings, which contribute very much to the attractiveness of the city. At night, when they are illuminated, the view is unforgettable.

The city also has many historically and architecturally precious buildings; the Ferhat water channel, the 13th century Seljuk Burmali Mosque, the 15th century Yildirim Beyazit Mosque and Complex; the 14th century Ilhanli Bimarhane Mental Hospital with lovely relieves around its portal, the extraordinary octagonal Kapi Aga Medrese (theological school), the Torumtay Mausoleum and the Gök Medrese. There are traditional Turkish mansions which have been well-preserved showing the best examples of Turkish architecture. The 19th century Hazeranlar Mansion has been restored perfectly and now it is of great interest with an art gallery on its first floor and an ethnographical museum on the second. The Archaeological Museum of Amasya has an interesting collection including the mummies of the Ilhanli rulers of Amasya.

As for natural beauty, Amasya is set apart from the rest of Anatolia in its tight mountain valley and hides its own secret beauty. Lake Borabay (65 kms northeast of Amasya) is a crater lake with an amazing view and fresh air. It is a perfect area for fishing (especially trout), for picnicking and for being alone with nature and doing some sports. Yedikir Dam Lake and Omarca National Park are other excursion sites. Terzikoy spa center, a thermal resort, is also worth a visit.

Amasya was also one of the Turkish cities which had the best viewing location for the last total solar eclipse of the 20th century which happened on 11th August 1999. Many visitors came to the city to witness this spectacular event. Now, on 29th March 2006, there will be another total solar eclipse in this city wich can be seen at 14:06pm local time.

[Blue Blood]

Van

The province of Van sits by Lake Van, and was the ancient Urartian capital of Tuspa. It is situated in a green, fertile oasis in the midst of rocky mountains in the Eastern Anatolian region of Turkey. An impressive citadel stands on one of these peaks and dates back to the 9th century BC. There are steps carved into rock leading to the fortress, and while descending you will be able to see some cuneiform inscriptions paying homage to Persian King, Xerxes of the 5th century BC. In the fortress, the Urartian royal tombs are of interest. The surrounding area is full of Urartian remains. In the old city there are many mosques and mausoleums such as the Ulu Mosque, the Hüsrev Pasa Mosque, the Kaya ǥlebi Mosque and the Ikiz Kümbet. The Archaeological Museum in the new city exhibits the Urartian finds. At Van Harbor you may find pleasant places to rest. For swimming and camping you may head for Edremit, 14 kilometers to the southwest. It is a holiday resort center from where you may do some sightseeing excursions. At Gevas, there is a Seljukgraveyard, filled with extraordinary headstones, as well as the lovely Halime Hatun Tomb.
The explosion of Nemrut volcano led the formation of the largest lake in Turkey; Van and the deepest lake; Nemrut (it is not the same Nemrut mountain in Adiyaman). Urartus, Armenians, Kurds, Arabians, Romans, Seljuks, Ottomans, Byzantines all met on this gorgeous land.
Lake Van is the largest lake in Turkey (1.646 meters high and covers an area of 3.713 square kilometers) and provides good opportunities for enjoyable excursions. You may go for outdoor sports such as trekking or hunting in the mountains surrounding it, especially Mount Süphan, the second highest mountain in Turkey after Mount Ararat. Alternatively you may head for on the beach, or visit the Urartian sites and Turkish cultural centers. The islands on the lake are also interesting, most of them housing many monasteries and churches. The most important of these is the Akdamar Island with its 10th century church of Holy Cross. The church is now restored as a museum and its richly decorated walls have Old Testament relieves. After visiting the museum you may rest at the beneath lakeside the almond trees, where there are good opportunities for picnicking and swimming. Carpanak Island is also interesting and deserves a visit. Hosab, 67 kilometers east, has a magnificent old fortress fronted by huge walls. At ǡvustepe, there is an Urartian site, which is 25 kilometers from Van on the Hakkari road.
88 kilometers north of Van, are the Muradiye Waterfalls, perfect place to rest while listening to natures harmony at one of the restaurants or tea gardens around the falls.
Van is also famous for its Van cat, a pure white, longhair cat which has the strange feature of one blue eye and the other green.
Very few people know Tirsin pasture in Van. The rocky area of this 2.400 meters high pasture is an open air museum. There are thousands of pictures on thousands of rocks: Schematic pictures of Taurus, bison dating back to ages between Mesolithic times and bronze age. These pictures created by the hunters support the thesis that the area was thickly forested in prehistoric times.

[Blue Blood]

Bodrum (Halicarnassus)

An impressive medieval castle built by the Knights of Rhodes guards the entrance to Bodrum's dazzling blue bay, in which the Aegean and the Mediterranean Seas meet. The town's charm is well-known, attracting a diverse population of vacationers who stroll along its long palm-lined waterfront, while elegant yachts crowd the marina.

Not far from town, you can swim in absolutely clear, tideless, warm seas. Underwater divers, especially, will want to explore the numerous reefs, caves and majestic rock formations. The waters offer up multicolored sponges of all shapes and sizes, octopi and an immense variety of other aquatic life.

The reputation of Bodrum's boatyards dates back to ancient times, and today, craftsmen still build the traditional yachts: the Tirhandil with a pointed bow and stern, and the Gullets with a broad beam and rounded stern. The latter, especially, are used on excursions and pleasure trips, and in the annual October Cup Race.

Bodrum has gained the reputation as the center of the Turkish art community with its lively, friendly and Bohemian atmosphere and many small galleries. This community has encouraged an informal day-time life style and a night-time of excitement. The evenings in Bodrum are for sitting idly in one of the many restaurants, dining on fresh seafood and other Aegean specialties. Afterwards night clubs (some with cabaret) and superb discos keep you going until dawn.

Bodrum, known in the ancient times as Halicarnassus which was the capital of Caria, was the birthplace of Herodotus and the site of King Mausolous' Tomb (4th century B.C.), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In the harbor, the Bodrum Castle, or the medieval castle of St. Peter, is a fine example of 15th century crusaderarchitecture, and has been converted into the Museum of Underwater Archeology, with remains dating as far back as the Bronze Age. The stunning panoramic view from Goktepe, nearby, is much photographed by visitors to the Museums' 2nd century theater.

The beautiful Bodrum Peninsula suits holidaymakers interested in a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Enchanting villages, with guest-houses and small hotels on quiet bays, dot the peninsula. On the southern coast, Bardakci, Gümbet, Bitez, Ortakent, Karaincir, Bagla and Akyarlar have fine, sandy beaches. Campers and wind-surfers enjoy Gümbet, and at Bitez colorful sail boards weave skillfully among the masts of yachts in the bay. On shore you can enjoy quiet walks through the orange and tangerine groves bordering the beach. Ortakent has one of the longest stretches of sandy beach in the area and offers an ideal place for relaxing in solitude. One of the most beautiful beaches on the Bodrum peninsula, Karaincir, is ideal for lively active days by the sea and relaxed, leisurely evenings with local villagers. Finally, Akyarlar enjoys a well-deserved reputation for the fine, powdery sand of its beach, it's also considered as one of the best beaches in the world. Turgutreis, Gumusluk and Yalikavak, all with excellent beaches, lie on the western side of the peninsula and are ideal for swimming, sunbathing and water sports. In Turgutreis, the birthplace of a great Turkish Ottoman admiral of the same name, you will find a monument honoring him. In the ancient port of Myndos, Gümüslük, you can easily make many friends with the hospitable and out-going local population. In Yalikavak white-washed houses with cascading Bougainville line narrow streets. Small cafes and the occasional windmill create a picturesque setting.

See the north coast of the peninsula - Torba, Türkbükü, Gölköy and Gündogan - by road or, even better, hire a boat and crew to explore the quiet coves, citrus groves and wooded islands. Little windmills which still provide the energy to grind grain crown hills covered with olive trees. Torba, a modern village with holiday villas and a nice marina is located 8 km north of Bodrum. Gölköy and Türkbükü are small and simple fishing villages with a handful of taverns overlooking a lovely bay.

After a boat trip to Karaada, half an hour from Bodrum, you can bathe in the grotto where the warm mineral waters flowing out of the rocks are believed to beautify the complexion.

The translucent and deep waters of the Gulf of Gökova, on the southern shore of the Bodrum peninsula vary from the darkest blue to the palest turquoise, and the coastline is thickly wooded with every hue of green. In the evening, the sea reflects the mountains silhouetted against the setting sun, and at night it shimmers with phosphorescence. You can take a yacht tour or hire a boat from Bodrum for a two, three or seven day tour of the gulf.

Also Milas town and Labranda, some 65 kms from Bodrum, are places of interest for archaeology lovers.

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Diyarbakir

Situated on the banks of Tigris (Dicle) river in South-Eastern Anatolia, Diyarbakir still carries a medieval air with its walls encircling the city.
Starting from the earliest times, the city was ruled by the Hurri-Mithani, Hittites and Assyrians. It was once the capital city of the Arami Bit-Zamani Kingdom. It was later occupied or ruled by the Meds, Persians, Macedonians, Seleukos, Romans, the Ilkhanide and the Akkoyunlu Seljuks. It is referred to as Amidi, Amid, Amido or Amida in different sources. In Islamic - Arabic sources it is cited as "Diyar-i Berk". In the republican era it is started to be known as Diyarbakir deriving from the copper ore existing in the area.
These black basalt walls are perfect examples of the military architecture of the Middle Ages. They are also very well known since they are the second largest (5.5 kilometers) and best preserved walls in the world after the famous Great Wall of China. Although there were Roman, and probably earlier walls here, the present walls date back to early Byzantine times. There are sixteen keeps and five gates, each of which deserves seeing along with their inscriptions and relief. There are four main gates along the wall called as Dag Kapi, Urfa Kapi, Mardin Kapi and Yeni Kapi, and they open to four different directions. The walls are 12 meters high, 3-5 meters wide and have 82 watchtowers.

The most famous structure which witness to the rich historical heritage of Diyarbakir is its fortress. This fortress located on a solid rock called "Fis" 100 meters high from the Tigris (Dicle) river is believed to be built by the Hurri. The citadel has a domed basilica (a Nasturian Church from the 6th century), a mosque, Sahabeler tomb, an Artuklu Palace and some old official buildings.

You can have the chance to go back to the old days at the Deliler Han (Inn) by the Mardin Kapi of the City Walls. It was built by Husrev Pasha in 1527 and also known by his name. Now it is restored as a hotel with 120 beds preserving the original air of the old days when caravan travelers on the silk road used to stop and rest in this caravanserai. It is a two part structure, a two storey main part and a stable. The local people call it "deliler" (guides) since guides who took pilgrims from various locations to Mecca each year used to gather here. The remains existing just across the inn are also attributed to pilgrims.

Another fascinating sight in the city center is the Ulu Mosque, notable for its original architecture and the ancient materials used in the restoration of the building at various times. It is one of the oldest mosques in Turkey. It is known that the Church of Saint Thomas was gradually converted into a mosque. It is a grand and impressive structure, built of cut stone over an area of 80 x 80 meters. The minaret behind the mosque is rectangular. Its fountain (1849), carved marbles and niche are all important artworks. The walls of the mosque are also ornamented with relieves and carvings. The minaret and the gate bear 20 inscriptions dating back to various periods in history. The tombs in the courtyard was destroyed by the Persian King Ismail in 1507.
Nearby the Ulu Mosque is the Mesudiye Medrese and Hasan Pasha Han, a caravanserai now being used by carpet and souvenir shops. The Nebii Mosque is a typical example of the Ottoman style. The Church of the Virgin Mary is interesting and it is still in use (not to be confused with the one in Ephesus).

The Kasim Padisah Mosque is also interesting, especially due to the engineering which built a large tower upon four tiny pillars about two meters (6.5 ft) high, called the Dort Ayakli Minare (minaret).

The location of noted mythological cave Eshab-ul Keyf, and Dacianus ruins are in the town of Lice. The holy Mount Zulkufil and Hilar Caves are in the town of Ergani. Within the environs of Diyarbakir are the Birkleyn and Hasun Caves, the Antak City ruins and the Cayonu Archaeological Site.
The city holds many mosques and buildings of long historical and archaeological importance. There are four museums in the city center. When you add to those the renowned watermelons of about 40 kilograms (85 lb) approximately, and its silver and copper artifacts, Diyarbakir certainly stands as a destination to be visited in Anatolia.

The house where Cahit Sitki Taranci, one of the most celebrated poets of the Republican period, was born was turned into a museum in 1973. The museum exhibits the photographs and personal articles of the poet as well as some ethnographic pieces obtained from the area. The house bears the characteristic features of local architecture.

Gazi Köskü is a nice place for picnicking. The town of Cermik is a spa center.
The province has a territory of 15,355 square kilometers. Dry farming and fallow are practiced over most of its culture land. The population is approximately 1,5 million, living in 13 districts (including the central town) and 734 villages. Its administrative districts are Bismil, Cermik, Cinar, Cungus, Dicle, Ecil, Ergani, Hani, Hazro, Kocakoy, Kulp, Lice and Silvan.

Diyarbakir is located on a transition zone connecting the mountainous northern areas and the plains of Mesopotamia. It is presently at the centre of the highway network connecting other important settlements of the region such as Elazig, Mardin, Sanliurfa and Bitlis. The railway reached the city centre in 1935 and was later extended to Kurtalan out of the territory of the province. Diyarbakir has air connections to the big city centers of Turkey such as Istanbul and Ankara.

Despite its present status of dependency on crop farming and stock breeding, Diyarbakir has a considerable potential for other investment ventures and presently it is the second industrial centre of the region after Gaziantep. It has an organized site for small enterprises. Diyarbakir is one of the provinces accorded priority in development. The province is now moving to concentrate on feed and meat production, which increased capacity for marketing, while maintaining its traditional branches of industry.

Jewelery, silk processing, coppersmith works, pottery, leather works, felt making, textiles, embroidery and carpet making are the leading handicrafts in Diyarbakir. Among them, jewelery is still important. Mat bracelets, coriander, necklaces and silver ornamented wooden shoes are the special works of the province. Sericulture is practiced at the city centre and in the districts of Kulp, Silvan and Lice. However, silk production is in decline. Textiles which lived its golden age in the 40s now survive only in small workshops.

Malabadi Bridge

The bridge is near Silvan, a district of Diyarbakir, on Diyarbakir - Batman provincial border. It is a magnificent Artuklu Seljuk piece which witnessed so many events and is a must-see spot for any tour passing from the area. It has the widest arch width among all arch bridges in the world. It connects two banks of the stream not on a straight but broken line. Evliya Celebi, a well known Ottoman traveler says the following about the bridge: "The bridge has iron gates on both sides. There are hostels in these gates, to the right and to the left, and also under the arch. While some chat, others fish by throwing their nets down to the Batman Brook.". The inscription on the bridge gives the date of construction as 1147-1148. The inscription also reveals that the bridge was built by Timurtas, the ruler of the Artuklu in Mardin.